Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan (Frunze)

April 9, 2011

My cab arrived at the hotel here in Bishkek at about 8:00 am this morning. I was walking around downtown Bishkek at 8:01 am. Every guidebook talks about the shifty nature of this city, but I didn’t see it at all. Everyone has been very nice so far. This place represents every irrational fear Glen Beck has ever had: Muslim Asian Russians are everywhere! The city is a very interesting central Asian demography. Most ethnicities around the world have a diaspora that is represented in major U.S. Cities (Somalis in Minneapolis, Chinese in San Francisco, Armenians in Los Angeles). This is a great way to familiarize yourself with a culture before you throw yourself into that culture by traveling to a country that you do not understand fully. I have to say, I was completely ignorant to the Kyrgyz people and their culture prior to showing up here. It has been a fantastic time observing people interacting. The demography here is so diverse that you really would not be able to say whether you were in China, the U.S. or Russia from looking around.

The city is built in soviet style, with huge marble buildings and giant statues everywhere. I’ve seen more soviet artwork and monuments here than in Moscow. It’s almost like this place has been in a state of arrest since 1989. I walked good hour and a half to see the Kyrgyz version of the white house, which is near a beautiful park, and the main square that was ground zero for the April 7th 2010 revolution. Further down the road was the National State Museum that has some great (and exclusively Russian language) history of the Kyrgyz Republic. A new wing of the museum was dedicated to last year’s revolution, housing stories and possessions of the people killed during the riots. They also have the actual tear gas canisters that were used, along with bullet casings and arm bands worn by the rioters (see photos below). I kept walking to the amusement park and sat around and observed people having fun and enjoying the weather (it was about 85 degrees today).

After I was tired, and with my foot nice and swollen, I made my way back to the hotel and took a cab to Osh Bazaar. It is one of the largest markets in KR, and the vendors come quite a distance to sell their wares. To be honest, there weren’t too many things that weren’t for everyday household use. If I had wanted a new teapot or a new extension cord, I would have been very happy though. It was very impressive to see how big the market was though. It kept going, and kept spilling out of the sides of the physical boundaries of the market.

Considering I started my day at 4:00 am this morning, I’m surprisingly awake still. I feel lucky that this day feels like it’s been really full and enjoyable so far.

One highlight from the State Museum that I found hilarious: there is a mural depicting Ronald Reagan as a cowboy riding a missile while wearing a grinning skull mask. As you can see from the pictures, it looks as funny as the description sounds. Enjoy the photos…

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Stopover in Istanbul airport en route to Kazakhstan…

April 8, 2011

On my way to Almaty (and onward to Bishkek as soon as I land), and I’ve been freaking out for the last day reading a ton of horror stories about airport taxis stranding people halfway to Almaty or robbing them. So, I was very relieved when the hotel in Bishkek said that they could arrange a driver to drive to Kazakhstan to pick me up. Big relief.

There is a Kazakh man sitting next to me using his cell phone like a boom box blasting something in between Celine Dion and opera. This trip is going to be a really interesting experience…

50 years ago…

April 5, 2011

The world celebrates the 50 year anniversary of the first human shot into space on April 12th. This monument in Moscow honors Yuri Gagarin. He completed a full orbit of the earth in about an hour and a half in 1961. You can read more about the story of Vostok I at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yuri_Gagarin.

Vladimir, not John

April 4, 2011

That title makes much more sense if you say it out loud. Today I went to the mausoleum of Lenin to see him. Unfortunately, Lenin is all closed for business until April 20th (long after I depart), and I won’t be able to check another preserved ex-world leader off my “to see” list (I saw Mao in Beijing and it was quite interesting). So, I walked around Arbat St. instead. One of the highlights of this country is the subway system. It is an amazing system! Not just the efficiency, but also the beauty of the stations. Most stations are built in the Stalinist style with incredible detail. The trains are old, but luckily you never really ride the trains for very long because of the map design. If San Francisco had a system that worked this well, people would actually look forward to their commute. Instead we have muni :(.

Happy Anniversary GFTB!!!

April 3, 2011

I just noticed that today is the one year anniversary of the Gluten Free Travel Blog! I think it is amazing that I get to mark this occasion abroad. Thank you to everyone that reads along. To many more years of passport use…

UPDATE: Apparently I’m unable to read a calendar, because I was a month off. It was March 3rd, not April 3rd that saw the first GFTB post. Happy 13 month anniversary anyways!

From Russia, with love…

April 3, 2011

Moscow is really great. I have to start any post about this place with that simple fact. It is just a really, really, really beautiful city. After two days of traveling to get here from San Francisco, I arrived in the morning and made a day of Moscow. Starting with Red Square, I took in the buildings and tried to read up on the history of each one (each building has about a chapter of information on it alone). The thing that strikes me as most remarkable, it the length of the history, and how well it is preserved. Having lived in Belgium, I thought I knew old buildings, but some of these buildings are 600-700 years old, and they are perfectly preserved. Even though Moscow was bombed during WWII, apparently they missed everything of interest while bombing. I don’t have access to uploading pictures right now, but google St. Basil’s Cathedral and you’ll know what I’m talking about (yes, it is the building from the level 100 screen in Tetris). It’s not a cheap city, but you can get by reasonably with a little effort.

Today I set out to see the Kremlin and the Russian version of the Crown Jewels. It was amazing to see all the Russian Orthodox churches, all within one compound, each one service a different purpose (weddings, coronations, etc.). The experience was filled with the never ending experience of waiting in line, but it was totally worth the wait.

Patience is the best advice for traveling in Russia. The people are so friendly, and very helpful, but everything takes longer than it seemingly should. Budget a lot of time for waiting and you’ll get the most out of the trip. If you plan to see everything in one day, you will be swearing at the traffic jam your taxi seems to never fail to find. So far, so good. Hopefully I’ll be able to post some of these pictures soon. Wifi seems to be lacking.

PICTURE UPDATE:

Climbing injury/trip to the ER

February 6, 2011

Bad sprain, no appearance that it’s broken. Awaiting confirmation from radiologist. Hard catch on the fourth clip resulting in a 16′ lead fall (6′ above the clip, belayer came up 4′) that took me into the wall. In non-climber speak – I fell and swung into the wall, and my ankle is killing me. I have to fly to Dallas tomorrow morning for work and it’s going to be miserable on crutches…

UPDATE: I went back to the podiatrist and apparently I tore my Achilles Tendon. I guess that explains why it was still hurting after 6 weeks. I’m in a walking boot and will have to wear it for another 6 weeks. In other news, I’m getting really good at climbing with one leg :).

Russia, Kazakhstan & Kyrgyzstan

January 22, 2011

Yep. End of March…

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Eid Mubarak!

November 21, 2010

I was met at Casablanca airport by Youssef, my former upstairs neighbor who was coincidentally visiting family in Morocco. He explained that the city was grinding to a halt getting ready for Eid al-Adha the following day.

Known as “the sheep Eid,” it is the bigger of the two islamic holidays. The holiday is marked by the male head of household slitting the throat of a sheep. It is intended to represent the sacrifice Abraham was asked to make, except the sheep is used instead of the eldest son (I’m guessing for population maintaining reasons). See the video attached, if you care to see it (warning – it’s pretty graphic).

The rest of the day pretty much resembled Thanksgiving, with lamb and conversation. All in all, being able to join in and experience the holiday was a really great experience.

The following day we drove the 2 hours to Marrakech to see the night market and the souq. The contrast from the day before was huge. Going from the countryside to the Plaza of the Apocalypse (seriously, that’s the name of the plaza) was like seeing two different worlds. Marrakech is a busy, chaotic hub for tourists and locals. The spice vendors, food vendors, drink vendors are all amazing to see, but bring your wad of cash because (by Moroccan standards – or any other standard) this place is not cheap. Check out the pictures below:

Lisbon, Portugal

November 17, 2010

Okay, okay, I got this city completely wrong from reading the travel books. It looked interesting, but not as truly amazing as it actually is! The city is a great mixture of Moorish influenced architecture, restaurants literally 12 feet apart throughout the entire city, and a cool city vibe. Began the day near the Instituto Lisbon (cheap hotel and wasn’t extremely out of the way) and walked down to Rossio to check out the different Praças. Wonderful people the entire mile and a half walk there. Everything seems to open up around noon and the first kebab stand I saw received my business. Hopped “Tram 28” (a local streetcar that happens to follow the route of every tourist attraction in Lisbon) and spent half a day soaking up the awesome views of hilly Lisbon. I’m really sorry that I did not have more time to explore everything that Lisbon has to offer. A couple of parting observations about Lisbon:

Portuguese is absolutely beautiful to listen to!
There is an awesome amount of graffiti in Lisbon. Most is garbage, but some is incredible!

I’ll let the photos speak for themselves when it comes to the sites…